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Pleated Linen Shirt:
The close-fitting, vestlike male doublet had narrow, later wide, slashed sleeves and bases (short cartridge-pleated skirts), both of which were tied on. The neckline was first low and square, showing a fine embroidered and pleated linen shirt, and later rose to a small collar over which the shirt collar, sometimes fluted, turned down in a falling band. The jerkin, or jacket, which replaced the cotehardie, was fuller than the doublet. It had a wide sailor collar, often of fur, and was either sleeveless or had wide slashed sleeves. Cloaks also had wide collars. Hose reached the waist, then divided into upper stocks, consisting of canions (close-fitting, slashed breeches) fastened to nether stocks (stockings).Shoes were open in back, with wide, slashed toes. Men had moustaches and beards and long hair, wore various brimmed hats, many with brooches and plumes, and carried swords. A woman's gown consisted of a bodice sewn to a skirt and having separate, interchangeable sleeves. The bodice was first square with a wide square neck, often filled in with a pleated or fluted high-collared linen tucker; it later became more pointed and rose to a high collar over which appeared a fluted linen chemise collar. The funnel-shaped outer sleeves, often fur-lined, turned back to show contrasting narrow, puffed, and tied undersleeves. An overskirt was tucked up, or later opened in an inverted "V," to show a contrasting underskirt. From a chain at the waist hung purses, rosaries, mirrors, or pomanders —a fashion that long continued. Heads were covered with fitted lappeted hoods of heavy dark material edged with white folds or ruching. Thi costume lingers as the dress of playing-carc queens.
See Also Blousing Linen Undersleeve:
Women's dress softened as the bodice short-led and widened, and the skirt fell in rich ilds over petticoats instead of a farthingale, smetimes a loose open robe set over the bodice as draped up over a lighter-colored underskirt, he neckline moved below the shoulder, and the iff became a falling band and finally a gauzy ;rchief. A full slashed or "leg o' mutton" ;eve was tied with a rosetted ribbon on the Dper arm and finished with a lace cuff at the rist or a blousing linen undersleeve at the bow. In addition, there were lace-trimmed irons, short-waisted jackets, and cloaks. Hair, awn back into a bun, with loose side curls ngthening as the shoulders were bared, was vered indoors only by a kerchief. Outdoors,hoods and high-crowned hats were worn. Pearls replaced gold jewelry.Any Textile fiber may be used to weave tapestry. Wool has always been the most favored material because its soft springy quali lends itself best to covering the warps. Its abili to take dye is another factor in its favor. Tl earliest fragments of tapestry preserved fro Pharaonic times in Egypt were woven entire of linen; however, in early Christian times wo was almost exclusively used for the wefts, som times with linen, sometimes with woolen warp Linen, silk, and gold threads were also used ; wefts, though generally in combination with woe Early tapestries from Persia combine cottc with wool and the same is true of tapestries i pre-Columbian Peru.
On The Other Hand See Lace-rimmed Linen Boothose:
Men wore two pairs of expensive colored silk tockings, wrinkled down to show the pair under-leath, and they protected the stockings with lace-rimmed linen boothose. Their spurred boots had ride tops folded down to hold boothose, stock-rigs, garters, and hems of breeches. Boots were isually worn, although there were also heavy, quare-cut, high-heeled shoes with rosettes of ibbon or lace on the instep. Long loose mili-iry cassocks (coats) and cloaks were tied diag-nally and worn with the swashbuckling, broad-rirnmed, cocked and plumed hats, typical of the ing-locked Cavaliers, or with the stiff, narrow-rimmed, high-crowned hats of the close-cropped uritans (Roundheads). Beards were reduced to ainted Vandykes.Value of Lace.—Handmade lace is so seldom worn and so little collected that it is not possible to appraise it realistically. There is no such thing as priceless old lace, unless "priceless" is under¬stood to mean "without commercial value." There is a small market for lace that is suitable for wedding attire, but the buyer must expect high prices and the seller low ones. Black lace, nar¬row widths of lace such as that known as baby lace, and lace, however antique, in poor condition, can hardly be sold at all, and some auction houses specializing in works of art will not include lace in their sales.
