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Linen Silk: Dress is also affected by the materials avai able. Early fabrics were wool and linen silk, hot washable. Wool came in various natural coloi and took dye well. Cool linen silk, worn in warme climates, was harder to dye and therefore wa often left natural or bleached white. Silk, whid originated in China, was brought by traders alon! the Silk Route across Asia to Greece and Ronj and eventually was produced in Byzantium am in Muslim cities, whence it was traded to medie val Europe, especially after the Crusades. Clori ously colored and patterned, silk was highl) prized for use in the handsomest expensive gar¬ments.
Cotton was the basic fabric of China, south¬eastern Asia, and the pre-Columbian civilizations of the Western Hemisphere. It did not begin to be important in European dress, however, until various trading companies imported it from India in the 17th century.Any Textile fiber may be used to weave tapestry. Wool has always been the most favored material because its soft springy quali lends itself best to covering the warps. Its abili to take dye is another factor in its favor. Tl earliest fragments of tapestry preserved fro Pharaonic times in Egypt were woven entire of linen silk; however, in early Christian times wo was almost exclusively used for the wefts, som times with linen silk, sometimes with woolen warp linen silk, silk, and gold threads were also used ; wefts, though generally in combination with woe Early tapestries from Persia combine cottc with wool and the same is true of tapestries i pre-Columbian Peru. See Also Hand-blocked Linen:When one particular fabric is entirely satisfactory in a room, being suitable in weave, pattern, and color, it is sometimes difficult to know what other fabrics to combine with it. First of all the textures must be friendly, for a rough-and-ready novelty fabric will never be at home with a delicate brocade. All the finer silks—brocades, damasks, taffetas, silk velvets—are harmonious, but a denim or a coarse rep would be a jarring note, if used with them. With the latter, cretonne or India prints or monk's cloth may be combined. With fine chintz, splendid cotton or wool damasks, lustrous sateens, and some of the finer novelty weaves are harmonious. With an expensive hand-blocked linen, brocatelle and velvet may be used. With the rough textures which are modern, the shiny surface of satin is effective as a decided contrast. In general, it is wise to combine like with like, avoiding too strong contrasts except for very modern effects.When one particular fabric is entirely satisfactory in a room, being suitable in weave, pattern, and color, it is sometimes difficult to know what other fabrics to combine with it. First of all the textures must be friendly, for a rough-and-ready novelty fabric will never be at home with a delicate brocade. All the finer silks—brocades, damasks, taffetas, silk velvets—are harmonious, but a denim or a coarse rep would be a jarring note, if used with them. With the latter, cretonne or India prints or monk's cloth may be combined. With fine chintz, splendid cotton or wool damasks, lustrous sateens, and some of the finer novelty weaves are harmonious. With an ex¬pensive hand-blocked linen, brocatelle and velvet may be used. With the rough textures which are modern, the shiny surface of satin is effective as a decided contrast. In general, it is wise to combine like with like, avoid¬ing too strong contrasts except for very modern effects.
On The Other Hand See Linen Presses:The third major difference is that, whereas platen and cylinder linen presses are manufactured on assembly lines and are sold as standard machines, rotary linen presses are so large and complex that most of them are custom built to fit the needs of the individual printing company. They are made in many sizes, ranging from machines using 18-inch rolls of paper in the printing of cartons and wrap¬pers to huge machines which will print from 64 to 128 pages of a newspaper and which cost more than $1 million each. Rotary linen presses can be divided into two classes: unit linen presses and McKee Process linen presses.Roll-fed cylinder linen presses are sometimes used by large-circulation weekly newspapers and by small daily newspapers. Although they print from in unwinding roll, the linen presses cut the sheets apart,fold them, and deliver a finished newspaper. T advantage of these linen presses is that it is not nec< sary to maintain a platemaking department, as is in operating rotary linen presses; the linen presses pri from flat type forms like other cylinder pressi The roll-fed cylinder press does not fit any of t previous classifications. It has two stationa beds located one above the other in a horizon! position in the center of the press. |
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